Day 23, Calzadilla de la Cueza to Sahagún

So I was a little enthusiastic this morning. Breakfast was earlier than usual at 7am and I had listened to others talking about how it was going to be hot and they wanted to get the distance done before it got too hot. Forgetting myself, I got swept up and headed out as soon as I finished my breakfast which meant that I was on my way just before 7.30am. It was still dark! Note to self, it is no fun walking in the dark and I walk faster than others too so there is absolutely no need to leave before 8am if not 8.30am. 

This morning, not only was it dark but it was damp and misty. This damp mist lasted until about 10.30am when the sun did burn through. 

I reached the first town with coffee just before 9am!! Kari had already arrived and ordered her coffee. When I headed in for mine it took a while as the guy serving was busy doing shots with a group of local men! It is a different world. Anyhow after toasting and downing his shot (apparently a local coffee liqueur) he got my coffee before returning to his mates. John and Vivian arrived just as Kari was leaving so we had a brief chat before I headed on.

As a reached the very small town that Andy and Sian had stayed in I saw a local church. It was closed, but it has been a day and a half since I have seen a church and given that we are in Spain that is a record, usually every small village has at least one. Normal service resumed!

It was still misty when I found another stop. By this stage I was ahead of both Kari and John and Vivian, they arrived just as I was heading out so I agreed to see them later. The sun was just starting to burn through.

Leaving the village I spotted some hobbit houses. I was disappointed to learn that in fact these are not hobbit houses but Bodegas. They were used to store and make wine and store food. Families in the village would make enough wine for their families and store it here. Nowadays they are used for parties and still occasionally to store food. How cool is that?

I headed on, after running back to the cafe for my walking poles. Second time I have left these behind!!

Today, I have passed the half way point between St Jean Pied de Port and Santiago, I can’t believe it! I am only a few days outside of Leon and have just entered the province.

I enjoyed the walking today and made it into town around 1pm, to be honest far too early really, reiterating that I should leave a little later. However, there are some pluses to being early. I asked at the hostal about a laundry in town, and the owner said she would do my laundry for €8 and have it back within 2 hours!! Result, same price as taking it to a launderette myself but I only had to hand her my bag of stinky laundry!!

I then dropped Dawn a note to see how she was doing. She was on her way back from the physio and raving about feeling better already! Apparently all her pain is down to very tight ligaments after days of heavy walking, so no permanent issues and after a painful massage she is in a better space which is great news. I decided that it would not hurt for a little more treatment since there is someone good in town so I now have an appointment for 4pm. A physio here is €25 so worth another quick treatment.

City gate in Sahagún

I have to say though that I feel way better today. Yesterday I was reserving judgement on the taping as my knee was screaming at me after a flat 18km. However today was 22km and whilst sore, I definitely could have kept going and it is not yet screaming. Hopefully another treatment and I will be well on my way.

Having arrived in Sahagún, I am staying in the same place for 2 nights. Tomorrow there was no room in town so I am being bused back to this hotel after walking tomorrow and then bused back the following morning. Anyhow the plus is that I don’t have to pack up my bag tomorrow morning which is very nice.

I am now sitting in the square having sorted my physio appointment and celebrating with a beer. John and Vivian have just gone by, they seem to manage to just keep going. Tonight, I think we are all in the same town but different places. Dawn and I are both in the same spot, and plans have been made for a dinner all together in Leon and then Astorga which will be great.

I have to say I am loving the weather. Once the sun breaks through it is just clear blue skies and a very pleasant 26 degrees. Just wonderful I could get used to this.

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