Day 36, O’Cebreiro to Triacastela

George and I went to mass last night. I assumed being a small town and having an international mass every night that it would be the same as the night before. I could not have been more wrong! Two different priests, which makes me think just how many does this village have, especially since the total population is only 50 for the village? The service was much more of a traditional Spanish mass than the night before. Still good with a Pilgrim blessing but far less translation.

We then had dinner at our hotel. We ordered off the a la carte menu since I had eaten the Pilgrim menu the night before. I just had a burger with a salad, it was really great as a change. George had the speciality which is octopus and salad. It is proper octopus full of tentacles, not really my thing but if you like it I think this was pretty special.

Well what a difference a day makes!! Proper wet weather testing today, safe to say, if it rains all day, my wet weather gear fails!!

Today, very aptly, the quote for the day In the guidebook is: ‘ if you want the rainbow, you’ve got to put up with the rain’. Well I never saw a rainbow but the book was right about the rain. The first 7km was funny, it was the same route I had walked yesterday, and I am so pleased that I did. Spot the difference in the views!!

George and I had agreed a coffee spot to meet in where I had turned around yesterday, the coffee was good, yesterday the place had been empty, today it was packed as everyone sought a few minutes of warmth. We agreed a next stop another 9km on and I set off again.

The weather, if anything got worse, just driving rain and wind. By 10.30am it is fair to say that I was soaked though and the experience became less fun!

Still, it is interesting, you learn to appreciate different things. Walking along with your hood up creates much more of your own world. Add music and it really does feel like your own world inside your hood with your own music bubble. I almost missed the signs for the route. All pilgrims now have to stop to look at each other as they pass as no one can see out from their hood. Quite entertaining!

As I strolled on I discovered that the rainproof cover for my backpack is great and keeps the pack very dry, the water runs straight off the and down my backside, my trousers and underwear soak up all the runoff water, delightful!!

I reached the next stop after a further 9km and despite the promise of a warm drink and catching up with George I have to say there was no attraction to stop, dry clothes and a shower trumped George I am afraid, I dropped him a note to say I was not stopping and pushed on.

The last 6km of the day were steep downhill, the path dropped 800m and required full concentration, particularly since my feet and socks were squelching properly, I might have prunes at the end of my feet.

As I approached town I removed my headphones and went to pop these in my pocket. To my surprise, I discovered that my waterproof jacket has a unique feature. It allows water in through the seams but not out so I have pockets full of water, little swimming pools in my pockets, such a great gimmick!!

The sight of my accommodation was so welcome, I checked in, very basic tonight, but dry. As I walked to my room with the signora I checked about laundry, to my delight she agreed that she does laundry. So first things first, everything off and all my other dirty clothes plus today’s wet ones were straight into the laundry.

I popped on my remaining dry and clean clothes and went to the bar for a beer. If this weather continues I might need to reconsider my wet weather supplies. However, that will have to wait for tomorrow since there are no shops in this town.

Forecast tomorrow….rain….bring it on!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *