Last night I had dinner with George, final time. The place right next to his hotel does great fish and George is now on first name terms with Matteo managing the bar and restaurant. So despite George having been there the last couple of evenings he seemed keen to stay there since the food is good. I have to say it was good. I had a vegetable soup followed by fresh dorado, just landed that morning and simply grilled, it was amazing, and it was served with a fresh salad. I really enjoyed it. Said goodbye, again, it has been so great to meet George and who knows, he is thinking of planning a reunion in Scotland for the Edinburgh festival!
It was also not a late night which was good since I want to make sure that I enjoy my final day of walking tomorrow, 29km to Muxia, so an early night for me. A lie in too since breakfast does not start until 8.30am but since I don’t want to leave before 9am (daylight) this is not a problem at all.
The weather was dry and windy with patches of sun, just perfect walking weather. The scenery was lots of forest paths, and farm tracks, almost no road except the final approach to Muxia and often with stunning views of the sea and coast line. Little ascents and descents until Monte Lourido but this was still only a climb of 300m up and down but gave beautiful scenery of eucalyptus forests and wind turbines.
I have never really seen forests to Eucalyptus trees before but they are stunning and I think the sound of The wind blowing through the eucalyptus forests and the smell of the trees will forever bring me back to Northern Spain and the Camino.
The markings today were a little sparser but still perfectly manageable, this section can be done in either direction as many people stop in Muxia and then go to Finesterre and visa versa. It was odd to see as many people coming to opposite was as with me. This stage is not walked that often so it was very peaceful which was just lovely for my final day.
I arrived at my hotel around 3.15pm so plenty of time to go and explore. I headed out after locating a map. Muxia is a much smaller and more picturesque town than Finesterre. The Cape is much smaller than Finesterre but more rugged and spectacular, in my view absolutely stunning. I have decided I like the coast.
Both Finesterre and Muxia have a 0.000km marker and current measurements have Muxia as the final point but both have their interests and features and both are fishing ports. I am pleased I visited both, and pleased that I ended in Muxia, it is really peaceful and a very fitting end. You can go to either first so it was luck I came this way.
Right on the cape in Muxia it is very open, just rugged rocks and the sea. You can find a spot to just sit and contemplate.
The key legend associated with Muxia is the legend of Our Lady of the Boat. The Virgin Mary, the legend claims came here in a boat made of stone to help St. James in his ministry. St James felt that he had failed in his ministry in Finesterre so he travelled to Muxia. As he prayed he saw the boat with the Virgin Mary, she assured him that his ministry had been successful and that he should return to Jerusalem. The legend states that her stone boat became petrified here on the headland.
The sail stone, pedra dos cadris, is the most obvious and is said to have healing powers.
The rocking hull, pedra da abalar, was cracked in a storm in 1978 but it is still amazing.
The sanctuary to the Virgin, which was restored in 18th century, after the original from the 13th century was destroyed after a lightning hit, stands on the Cape overlooking the coast.
The Guidebook thought of the day today was: “Regret for the things we did can be tempered by time. It is regret for the things we did not do that is inconsolable.”
It feels appropriate, I would have regretted not walking this final day. I also would have regretted not taking the trip from Burgos to see the monks at Santo Domingo de Silas. I must remember to listen to myself once back home, make the most of all opportunities that arise.
So many pictures today, beautiful spot. Tomorrow back to Santiago for a final mass, some shopping and a tattoo!
