Day 9, Estella to Los Arcos

OMG today was such a fun day.

We set off early having decided last night that we would take provisions for lunch since the guide book said there was really nothing available. We had the healthy lunch option of crisps, nuts and fruit, Eric had some tuna fish that he intended to empty into a shower cap to eat!!!

Today was another day of hills and climbing, although a short day at 21.5km. It was relatively overcast but muggy. Halfway up the first hill and I was so hot my glasses were fogged up!

Today’s wisdom from the guide book is ‘to attain wisdom, remove things every day’. Interesting, today I acquired things such as wine and a really lovely forged camino shell with a cross.

About an hour into the walk we passed the famous wine fountain in the Camino. Sponsored by a vineyard there is a fountain which produces wine right next to the water fountain. It is at the entrance to the Monasterio de Irache. They provide 100 litres of free wine each day to pilgrims. Today was rose wine. We all part filled a water bottle for a little later since it was 9am, after of course a small taste and on we went.

Today was lovely rolling hills as we are progressing into olive groves and vineyards. Advise from other pilgrims is that pilgrims can pick grapes from the vineyards, we had a go today. The taste is delicious but the pip to flesh ratio was a little off, so they required a lot of spitting.

We took the scenic route today which is supposed to be the quieter route. It required a slightly higher climb with very little rest but was more picturesque. The route was lovely, up hill through a wooded path which was just great.

I am swatting a fly!

For a route which was supposed to be fairly remote it seems popular although as we discussed we only saw the younger group on this route but the views were amazing.

Today seemed very social, we kept passing the same groups all along the route which was huge fun, and the source of many in jokes.

For a route with supposedly no stops we seemed to find more stops than normal. We stopped for coffee in the Villamajor de Monjardín. 

We then found a mobile cafe for an ice cream at Cruce alt. Camino. This was a great shaded spot where everyone seemed to stop for a quick 20 minute break to share news of the day so far and take the piss out of each other.

Our final stop was a grassy area, no refreshments but a stunning view where there seemed to be an implicit agreement for all pilgrims that this was a stop.

Since last night we have passed and met and chatted to loads of other people but particularly a Canadian couple Frank and Marie. We passed them multiple times today.

Just passed our final stop they caught up with us and we all carried on into Liz Arcos together, passing a donkey on route.

Eric with the donkey

We ended up in the main square for a couple of drinks together. This is definitely the norm for all pilgrims when they first arrive before everyone goes their own way for a shower before dinner.

Frank and Marie have got the measure of Eric and Andy, quote of the afternoon after discussing the game of conkers was: ‘ is this true…’, I don’t think they had believed a word either Andy or Eric had said all afternoon. They have obviously reached the conclusion that all the English are absolutely mental!!

Tomorrow is a long one again, but I am looking forward to it.

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