Arrived, checked into my guest house and set out to find dinner.
Found a very popular restaurant with a pilgrims menu for €13. Sat next to an Australian couple, Jeanne and Gill, they had just travelled from Melbourne. They are on a 7 week break and spent a week in Sweden and then spent a few days in Biarritz, before heading here. They also start the walk on Tuesday but are stopping overnight at the Orisson refuge, about 8km from St Jean PP.
2 years ago they walked the last 100km to Santiago and then took a bus to Finesterre, so they know the Camino and love it and are back.
Jeanne has just finished her job in Melbourne she was an EA to a technology director at IAG, small world. Gill is using long term service days. It is common practice in Australia that after 10 years with a company you get 3 months paid long term service and this keeps accruing, absolutely amazing, why does the UK not do this? Gill has been with the same company for 35 years. It was a lovely relaxed evening.
Acclimatisation Day, sightseeing
Leisurely breakfast, everyone else from my 5 bed guest house had obviously set out that morning as their bags were in reception when I had breakfast. I felt a little lazy.
I then headed out to post a couple of cards and to check out my start point for tomorrow am. Sorted, at least I know where I am going.
St Jean Pied de Port is absolutely stunning, all the cobbled streets and history. It is the ancient capital of the Basque region of Basse-Naverre and all signs are in French and Basque. This morning I headed through the Porte St Jacques and climbed up to the Citadelle (Table d’Orientation), this has stunning views over the old town and the Pyrenees. There are four medieval gates in the town: Porte de France, Porte de Navarre, Porte D’Espagne and Porte St Jacques.
The Pilgrim welcome centre set up up with additional maps and details for the morning. Last year 57,881 pilgrims walked from St Jean Pied de Port, of them 2,845 were British. I received the welcome (not) news that tomorrow the temperature is due to drop 5 degrees and it is supposed to rain solidly. Looks like a soggy start to the trip!! Still, I have spotted a bakery which opens at 6am, so I plan to stop by in the morning to grab lunch, it might be soggy but I won’t be hungry.
The Eglise Norte-Dame, the Church of Our Lady is beautiful, tucked into the town. There is a service this evening at 7pm which I will plan to attend, perhaps to ask for a break to the rain so that I can see some of the views from the Pyrenees tomorrow!! Just bumped into Gill and Jeanne who are also planning to go to Church this evening.
It is amazingly peaceful here. I probably did not need this rest day but I am enjoying it.
In the words of Paul Coelho, ‘before a new chapter is begun, the old one has to be finished. Stop being who you were, and change into who you are.’
